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Travelogues

Sikkim: Journey to Remember


Asim Gupta writes about a journey to Lachung that remains with him as a memory that will grow distant with time.

I still cherish the memory of the unforgettable journey to the exquisitely beautiful Valley of Flowers, Yumthang in northern Sikkim in May, 1996. Along with my wife and two other families totalling 7 people, we set off on the sunny morning of 22nd May from Gangtok in a commander jeep with veteran driver Pasha. The entire tour was organised by Blue Sky Tours & Travels of Calcutta. The distance from Gangtok to Lachung, the gateway to Yumthang is approximately 120 kms. The road to Lachung generally follows the route via Fodong monastery, Mangan, Singhik, Tung & Chungthang. But the road through this route was severely damaged due to landslides caused by incessant rains in the beginning of May, 1996. Hence we had to abandon this route and take an unusual circuitous route via Dikchu. Travelling on this road became really adventurous because it was in such poor condition.

More About Sikkim
An Overview

Travelogues
Footprints in Snow
Rumtek Diary
Yumthang Valley


Trekking
Freedom From Fear
Classic Dzongri Trek
When Climbers Trek

We enjoyed the thick jungles, occasional streams and the scenic splendour of the drive, even if the bumpy drive caused us great discomfort. After reaching Dikchu we saw the Tista river flowing below accompanying us on our journey. On the way we met a group of Japanese tourists, in a minibus, also going to Yumthang. We happily stopped along the way to take photographs of the many waterfalls. At one place where the water was flowing through the road, our jeep had to cross very slowly. Here we found the Japanese bathing under the falls. We reached Mangan, the district headquarters by 2.30 p.m. and stopped for lunch.

On the road from Mangan via Singhik many mountain peaks including Kanchenjunga can can be seen on a cloudless day. Alas! We could only see the clouds that surrounded the peaks, but it still gave us immense pleasure to see the serene and natural surroundings. It was a heartfelt experience that would be treasured in our memories.
A few kilometers from Singhik we reached Mayang where we saw before us a gushing waterfall directly lashing the road at great speed, flooding the road.

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A few kilometers from Singhik we reached Mayang where we saw before us a gushing waterfall directly lashing the road at great speed, flooding the road. Military personnel had placed boulders to make the road motorable. However, our jeep was constantly skidding while going across this stretch. The driver negotiated this area with competence. At one point, some of us had to wade through the water to bolster the vehicle across. The falling rain and spray from the waterfalls drenched us inside the jeep.

At Tung, landslides had damaged the roads. The bridge here being of strategic military importance, only empty vehicles were allowed to cross till the day before. Luckily, we did not have to walk a kilometer through this slippery terrain. We could see the extent of damage here, and watched as the driver maneuvered cautiously across. At Tung the permit for entering Lachung had to be approved by the military authorities. After Tung we came across the big military cantonment area of Chungthang. From here the road to Lachung bifurcated from the main road. It is here that the Tista river originated from the union of two rivers Lachung-chu & Lachen-chu. From here the road became narrow and in the fading light negotiating the winding bends and innumerable small and large waterfalls we finally reached our first destination Lachung.

On the other side, surrounded by dense deciduous forests the river Lachung-chu sped forcibly through the boulders of stone in a crashing roar.
At Lachung our organisers arranged a nice hotel called Dabla Inn almost on the bank of Lachen-chu. This is a two storied wooden structure with all modern amenities. Set amidst the mountain ranges, the location of this resort is exquisite. Ahead of us the melting glaciers emerged as tiny waterfalls along the slopes. We could hear the roaring sound of the river Lachung-chu.

Walking down to the river, was an unforgettable moment. The gurgling sound of the river, the vast forests, the mountains casting shadows in the gathering dusk, the cool and serene atmosphere held us captivated and spellbound, revelling in the pristine beauty of nature.

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Early next morning we ran towards the river to have a glimpse of the surroundings by daylight. It was a wonderful sight, indeed, leaving us bereft of speech. Against the backdrop of snow clad mountain peaks, the rising sun peeped through the clouds and the melting glaciers glistened in silver threads along the mountain slopes. On the other side, surrounded by dense deciduous forests the river Lachung-chu sped forcibly through the boulders of stone in a crashing roar.

After breakfast at the resort, we set out on the final haul to our destination, Yumthang, the valley of flowers. Luckily for us, Mr Dorji, of Blue Sky accompanied us as a guide, and being a botanist introduced us to the various species of flora in the valley. Owing to it's proximity to the Chinese border, military personnel patrolled the area.

Now we entered the vicinity of the valley. After 15 minutes through the beautiful forests we came to a plateau where we found the first flowers: Rhododendrons and Primulas. We saw the snake flower, so aptly named. As we proceeded into the interior of the valley through the dense forests we could feel the intense cold. There were many coloured Rododendrons and other flowers in bloom, and we were lost in enchantment of so much beauty. This was heaven, indeed.
I am now left to cherish with great nostalgia the photographs that remind me of the exquisite surroundings of Yumthang, and the bonding of strangers grown close in their travels together.

After some distance we came to a place devoid of tall trees. Here we could see the high mountain ranges glistening in the sun shine on one side, and on the other, flat pasture land with grazing yaks. The ever joyous Lachung-chu flowed against the backdrop of a range of mountains covered with a variety of shrubs. Here we rested for a while before proceeding to the highest point of the valley, where a large stream flowed noisily under a wooden bridge in the forest of Rododendron trees. Returning, we visited a hot spring, where we met the Japanese tourists again, this time enjoying their picnic lunch.

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The permanent bridge over the river Lachung-chu that crosses to the hot spring having been damaged, a make shift bridge had been erected. We elected to take a longer route to the hot spring originating in some caves in the nearby mountain. Here arrangements have been made to store the hot spring water in tanks through pipe lines, with bathing arrangements. The bath was refreshing indeed. We reluctantly bid adieu to this wonderful valley.

After covering a distance of 22 kms we returned to our resort for lunch at 3.00 p.m., after which we went to visit an old deserted monastery. The main door was closed, but our driver took us through another entrance so we could ring the bell inside and turn the wheels of "Dharma Chakra".

Returning to our resort for the night's deep, restful slumber, we realised how close we had grown to our travelling companions. Waking early, we ran towards our beloved river Lachung-chu for a last glimpse of it's beauty in the scenic surrounding of mountains and forests. Everywhere the deep calm and serenity was tangible.

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At 9 a.m. we left Lachung with a heavy heart and a promise to return to this heavenly abode. On the return journey we stopped at Twin Falls, where two water falls spill from the same mountain glacier. The wide one leapt at tremendous speed, while the other was gentler, and had carved out a serene cave. Resuming our journey we reached Gangtok at 2:30 p.m. I am now left to cherish with great nostalgia the photographs that remind me of the exquisite surroundings of Yumthang, and the bonding of strangers grown close in their travels together.

Photo Credit: Moin Uraizee


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